BUZZ WORD #1

We constantly hear industry buzz words thrown around but how many people actually fully understand the benefits and or downsides to many of these words? This week we are going to feature a different "it" word each day.  First up....

PEPTIDES
What Are They:
A type of amino acid, peptides, which are naturally found in the skin, encourage the production of collagen and elastin to maintain healthy skin cells and give a plumper, more elastic look because they can dictate to skin cells how to repair themselves and function properly. Think of peptides as collagen-stimulators and skin problem-solvers without the need for injury or inflammation.

How They Work:
Since the aging process causes a natural decline of peptides in the skin, synthetic versions found in serums and creams help strengthen collagen and elastin levels. The smaller the chain of peptides in a product, the more impact there is on collagen production because collagen is made of proteins that are bonded together with peptides. Using peptides on the skin makes the skin think it is experiencing a breakdown of collagen internally and therefore prompts the body to make more collagen. Peptides also work well with glycerin, which together helps bring moisture to the outer most layer  of skin and lock it in.

Information courtesy of New Beauty.

Teen Breakout Freakout

Here is a great IDI article from Dr. Claudia Aguirre about end of school year stress for teens and how it translates to the skin.

"Ah summer. The home stretch, the ninth inning, a time for preparation and relaxation and… final exams! This may stir up terrifying memories, or if you’re in the midst of it, elicit a reminder of what’s to come. This crunch time is key to passing exams with flying colors or not passing at all, and it can feel like a literal squeeze or crunch, with your mind racing at 100mph. What you may not even realize during this hectic time is how it can also affect your body and even your skin.

Psychological stress is not just “in your mind,” although it does begin there. When we experience stress, a region in the brain called the hypothalamus releases signals to specific glands to produce even more signals, or hormones, which then circulate around the body and elicit the “stress response.” The stress hormones released by the glands sitting atop the kidneys are epinephrine, norepinephrine and cortisol.

Cortisol is a stress hormone that can also impact skin health. When cortisol is released, it can trigger the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum as well as increase inflammation. In the skin, this increased inflammation and sebum is the perfect environment for P. acnes to thrive inside the follicle. The result? A breakout.

We may not be able to avoid those finals, but we can try to avoid that stress-induced pimple by practicing relaxation techniques. Or at the very least, treat it with efficacious ingredients to help the skin heal. If you have teenage clients in the treatment room, remember this is a high-stress time so combine stress-relieving techniques with these ingredients:

• Benzoyl Peroxide: Stops breakout-causing bacteria in the follicle and helps clear skin.
• Salicylic Acid: A hydroxy acid that exfoliates surface skin cells and reduces inflammation.
• Bentonite and Kaolin Clays: Purifying clays pull oil from skin, deep cleaning and helping to control shine.
• Niacinamide: Assists in regulating sebaceous gland secretions while scavenging free radicals.
• Meadowsweet: protects against the production and secretion of excess sebum.
• African Whitewood: The bark extract of this tree has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and sebum-regulating properties."

View the full article here.

Beauty as Confidence, NOT Anxiety

Every woman (and man for that matter) should see this video. It's been floating around the web the past week or so but it wasn't until today that I finally took the 3 minutes out of my day to actually watch it. It's inspiring and honest.

The Vampire Facial

Why Are Celebrities Injecting Their Faces With Blood?

The science of the "vampire facial"

Article By Francie Diep via popsci.com

Kim Kardashian shows off the effects of a "vampire facial" or "blood facial." 

 

Kim Kardashian has gotten one. So, apparently, have other ladies in Miami.
A "blood facial" or "vampire facial" is a cosmetic procedure during which a doctor draws a couple vials of blood from your arm, centrifuges the blood to separate out the plasma and platelets from the red blood cells, and then adds the platelet-rich plasma back into your face. For extra absorption, the doctor pokes your face all over with a bunch of micro-needles before applying the plasma. 
Read the full article here.

Meet the Pun-Loving Mani Queen Who Names OPI's Nail Polishes

So you're at your standing manicure appointment trying to decide between "You Don't Know Jacquesi" and "Lincoln Park After Dark," and you find yourself wondering: Who is the creative mind who comes up with these fantastically punny nail polish color names?

Mystery solved: It's Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, the co-founder and artistic director of OPI, who was kind enough to let us pick her brain.

Cosmo: So, how does the nail polish naming process work?

Suzi: I create all of the shades first. Soon after, six of us sit in a boardroom to come up with the clever names. Usually you can find us eating something unhealthy; it really gets our ideas flowing! If you notice, some of our polish names even take a play on food. "Suzi is Hungary Again" is one of the most popular. The idea for this name was me around 3pm asking around the office if any one has a good snack. Many of the names come from our life experiences—good and bad—and our travels.

Cosmo: Do you ever take suggestions?

Suzi: We don’t take suggestions outside the boardroom, but sometimes we invite someone on staff to sit in as a guest listener. I've found over the years that our guests have some of the best ideas!

Cosmo: What is your favorite polish name ever?

Suzi: I love polishes with names that tell a story. In 2006, we had the OPI Mexican collection color, and My Chihuahua Bites!—a bright orange polish that earned its name because the weekend before, I was bit by a chihuahua. Ouch! Not the best story, but a great name and polish certainly came out of it.

Cosmo: How do you decide on your colors?

Suzi: I always look to the fashion trends from Paris and Milan so I can see what fabrics and color schemes the top designers are using for the upcoming season. Then I try to envision what would look best in nail polish. Our themes run alongside what is current in pop culture. With the release of the new Disney movie Oz: The Great and Powerful, we created an OPI line with names from the movie alongside colors that best fit the characters. Two times a year we do our seasonal collection. I find the most inspiration for colors in countries I have visited.

Cosmo: You've done polish lines with Mariah Carey and Katy Perry—are there any celebs you're dying to work with in the future?

Suzi: I am so lucky because when it comes to celebrities; they love the brand. I don’t have to do much to approach them. The new celebrity OPI line is someone I have been wanting to work with forever, I can’t tell you who, but I know you will love them!  

Article by Danielle Adone at cosmopolitan.com

Photo: Courtesy of Getty Images 

Detoxing is Essential to Healthier Living

 

 Article by Nancy Zare 

Any discussion about detoxing begins with the understanding that our planet and bodies are loaded with toxins. Research has shown that, even in utero, humans test positive for a host of substances that don’t belong in the body. Since World War II, industrial nations have introduced more than 70,000 chemicals into the environment. Here’s a list of the usual ways in which most people currently expose themselves to toxins:

• Consuming highly processed foods and beverages
• Eating cooked foods, especially items microwaved in plastic containers
• Living/working in urban areas that are full of air pollution
• Drinking fluoridated and/or chlorinated water
• Using non-organic household cleaning agents 
• Using non-organic hair and skin care products
• Having mercury amalgam tooth fillings 

 

 

A person who is laden with toxins lacks energy, feels sluggish, is prone to illness, has poor digestion and elimination and may even be depressed. Any healthy living plan should begin with detoxing to both decrease exposure to toxins and remove the toxins that are already there. Consider these recommendations to begin with:

• Strive to eat organic foods with minimal processing and consume lots of raw produce
• Eat fruits high in antioxidants, such as pomegranates and blueberries
• Because of the widespread use of hormones in animals raised for food, avoid animal products when possible
• Take high quality, whole food supplements to make up for nutrient deficiencies in today’s food
• Drink plenty of pure water. The rule of thumb is to drink half your body weight in ounces, which is the amount lost through urination, respiration, and perspiration. Ionized water is preferred over tap, bottled, well and filtered waters because it’s brimming with antioxidants and is highly alkaline. Drinking ionized water also supports the kidneys and bowels. 
• Use an air purifier
• Expel old air from your lungs with deep breathing exercises
• Oxygenate your cells by exercising; a mini trampoline is a fun way to do this
• Use a loofa to remove dead tissue from your skin, which is an organ of elimination; saunas, ionic foot baths and detoxifying foot pads are also helpful
• Have regular bowel movements, since many toxins reside in any matter that’s retained in the bowel

 

Nancy Zare, Ph.D., is an international health and wellness consultant and an independent representative of Kangen Water Ionizers.This article appears in the January 2013 issue of MIDS

Oprah.com on fascia

 

You're Achy, You're Sore, and You Have No Idea Why

It feels like muscle pain, but unlike a tight hamstring that makes you yelp when you stand up, your ache isn't triggered by a particular movement, and you can feel it in different places at various times. The culprit could be your fascia, says Mary Ann Wilmarth, DPT, chief of physical therapy at Harvard University Health Services. This sheet of tissue, made up of densely packed protein fibers, weaves throughout the entire body, and it binds and supports your muscles, bones and even your organs. While bodywork specialists have been passionate about fascia for decades, Wilmarth says it took new research on how fascia and muscles work together (some of it presented at the first international fascia research conference at Harvard in 2007) to get different health pros—from orthopedists to MDs and pain experts to personal trainers—to catch on.

Read more: http://www.oprah.com/health/How-to-Keep-Your-Fascia-Healthy-Fascial-Therapy-Foam-Rollers/1#ixzz2ENixwc9N

Preventing Pain

Tips on avoiding pain in a technology filled world!

When using an iPad or Tablet:

• Get a tablet case that props up your device at a comfortable viewing angle
  
• Take a break every 15 minutes
  
• Shift—your hands, your weight, stand up or sit down
  

When using a laptop or desktop computer. Same tips as above for a tablet, plus:

• Use an external keyboard
  
• Keep shoulders relaxed and elbows close to your body
  
• Keep hands, wrists, forearms and thighs parallel to the floor
  
  Read the full article from Harvard Health Publications.
  

Bath Salt Confusion

Spa Bath Salt Expert Clears Up Bath Salt Drug Confusion

*Article courtesy of SpaTrend.com 

 

I’m sure, like me, when you heard the recent news about a street drug called bath salts that allegedly caused a man to gruesomely attack a homeless man, you were horrified. Upon reading about it, I also quickly realized that the bath salts that caused this horrible reaction have nothing to do with the bath salts that we trade in at spas. Still, I’m sure there are plenty of people who are confused. Thankfully, one industry guru has released a statement to clear things up.

"It was clear from the beginning that real bath salts were not the cause of this attack," says Lee Williamson, president of San Francisco Bath Salt Company (SFBSC), a manufacturer of legitimate bath salts. "However, it is reassuring to finally put the speculation surrounding this particular issue to rest." Though most commonly known as "bath salts," the street drug is also sold under other innocent names such as "plant food" and "glass cleaner," Williamson explains. "The mass media really overused the term 'bath salts' with this case. They were able to take something so seemingly innocuous as bath salts and elevate the story to national prominence with shock value," he says. "Any extra exposure that our industry can get is generally a good thing. But I never would have imagined that a street drug commonly known as 'bath salts' would become a national crisis, resulting in a media frenzy.”

*Article courtesy of SpaTrend.com

 

Sunscreen and Expiration Dates Explained

The FDA requires that all sunscreens retain their original strength for at least 2-3 years, and in order to make these claims the sunscreen formula has to undergo a series of real time or accelerated stability tests to prove that the ingredient is still active up until the time of expiration. It’s important to point out at this point that if you’re using sunscreen every day and in the correct amount, a tube should not last that long. Most clients don’t realize that their sunscreen has a limited time in which it can be used effectively, so it may be a good idea to point out the expiration date to the client when they purchase their next sunscreen product from you. Most expiration dates can be found stamped on the crimp of the product packaging tube or printed on the bottom of the product carton. If sunscreens have expired there is a good chance they are still good for a few months; however once you reach the expiration date there is no guarantee that the level of activity is still present.

 Here are some great sunscreen tips:

• The best place to store your SPF product is in a cool place out of direct sunlight and heat.

• Buy smaller sizes of your SPF product vs. larger “30% extra for free” products, which will inevitably expire before you get a chance to use them all and you’ll end up having to throw them out.

• Don’t use any SPF formulation that contains fragrance or perfume as this may cause hyperpigmentation and, in some cases, a photosensitized reaction on the skin.

• If your client has a more sensitive skin she or he would be better off using a physical SPF (containing Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide), as these formulations tend to have a larger molecular size that does not penetrate and potentially cause irritation.

• Try to look for a formulation that can potentially deliver additional skin health benefits, such as Vitamin E and Vitamin C to the skin, as these types of sunscreens help to minimize the amount of free radicle damage to the skin, thereby offering a more advanced level of protection.

• Many clients are hesitant to use sunscreen because they feel the formulations are too thick, heavy or pore clogging. Professional products, however, use new technology that delivers more sophisticated SPFs, which have the ability to benefit different skin types and conditions. This allows you to prescribe a sunscreen that’s perfectly customized to your clients’ needs.

Read the full article here.

Bridezilla be Gone: Your Skin Guide Countdown to the Big Day

Dermalogica has put together a bridal professional skincare checklist! Here are the “to dos” before the “I dos” are said: 

Book the Bride: Problem, breakout prone skin and hyperpigmentation issues are going to need consistent treatments and an-at home protocol to achieve significant results. Just like working with a personal trainer to get into the Vera, you’re the official skin trainer, so position yourself in the same way. Schedule six months out from the big day with monthly, then bi-weekly skin treatments, and tweak and customize the treatments and products throughout. Brides should also be alert to potential eyebrow issues at this time too – some areas that may have been over-plucked might need to grow in, which can take several months to accomplish.

Month 1: Concentrate on deep cleaning, particularly if the client is new to skin treatments.
Months 2-4: These treatments should be spent on problem solving areas that need extra help.
Months 5-6: The last two treatments should focus on getting the skin glowing, firm, energized & hydrated.
Month 6: The big day has arrived! Schedule the final skin treatment three days before the wedding.
BIG DAY: The day of the wedding should be reserved for makeup and hair – that’s it!

See the full suggested schedule here.

Evidence of Sun's Aging Effect on Skin

Left Side of Man's Face Severely Aged by Sun Exposure

By Lisa Collier Cool

 To most people it’s a curiosity, something to laugh about with the kids: you spend a few hours a day driving and by mid-summer, your left hand and arm are shades darker than the right.

But as a new case presented in the New England Journal of Medicine shows, left-sided sun damage is no laughing matter. Over the years, that lopsided suntan and a few extra freckles can mutate into deep creases, sagging skin and a general look that’s far older than your true age—and, too often, a high risk of skin cancer.

Read the full article here.

What's Better for You: Coffee or Tea?

Check out this article from abcnews.go.com about the benefits of coffee vs. tea.

When you reach for that mug in the morning, you may get more benefits than a jump-start to the day.
Daily cups of coffee have been linked to a reduced risk of Parkinson's disease, liver cancer, gallstones and type 2 diabetes. In addition, green tea and white tea have been touted for their health benefits.
"What's interesting really is for years we were beating up on coffee. … And now study after study is suggesting benefits," said "Good Morning America" medical contributor David Katz.
So given the choice between coffee and tea, what's the healthiest thing you can reach for in the morning?
You can find Katz's advice below. Full disclosure: He's a coffee drinker.

How Much to Have?
The maximum recommended amount of coffee is four 8-ounce cups a day, although it depends on the individual in terms of body size, among other factors. Because caffeine has been shown to raise blood pressure, you should limit your intake if you have any blood pressure abnormalities. More than four cups is never recommended.

Antioxidants

There is the strong suggestion that the antioxidants in tea -- whether it's black, green or white -- have health benefits. Antioxidants can prevent inflammation of the blood vessels, and it has been linked to reduced risk for cancer. In terms of antioxidants, white tea has the most, followed by green tea, black tea and coffee. Green and white teas are made from different parts of the tea leaves, but both are minimally processed, unlike black tea, which is fermented. It appears the process of fermentation reduces the antioxidants in the final product.

Caffeine
Caffeine is associated with enhanced alertness, increased productivity and concentration when you're driving, and enhanced athletic performances. In terms of caffeine, coffee has the most followed by black tea, green tea and white tea.

Tea Vs. Tea Beverages
Because the health benefits of tea has become more recognized by the public, some manufacturers are putting a small amount of it in a product, then adding ingredients that are bad for you, such as sugar. For instance, a Snapple Green Tea has 46 grams of sugar in it -- the equivalent of about 11 sugar cubes. That's more than twice as much sugar as you get in a Hershey chocolate bar, which as 22 grams of sugar. Just because the label says white tea doesn't make it a healthy drink.
"Our green teas provide consumers with functional benefits … and great taste," Snapple said in a statement on its product. "We offer a lime green tea in both a diet and regular version, giving consumers different choice and calorie options."

Coffee or Tea?
If you have a choice between coffee or tea, Katz says tea is better. If coffee is part of your morning routine, you have nothing to worry about.



Image from reviewtea.com. Article courtesy of abcnews.go.com.

National Melanoma Awarness Month

In honor of May being National Melanoma Awareness Month I found this interesting piece on sunscreen from www.skincancer.org 

If Recent Attacks on Sunscreen Concern You. . .

"Since its inception in 1979, The Skin Cancer Foundation has always recommended using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher as one important part of a complete sun protection regimen which includes seeking shade, covering up with clothing including a wide-brimmed hat and UV-blocking sunglasses and avoiding tanning and UV tanning booths. Recent attacks on sunscreens in the media point to imperfections and potential risks, but miss the point that sunscreen continues to be one of the safest and most effective sun protection methods available. We are concerned that the criticisms will raise unnecessary fears and cause people to stop using sunscreen, doing their skin serious harm." Read the full article here.

 

In other sun related news:

Coming this June... Dermalogica's improved

and reformulated Daylight Defense line using

UV Smart Booster Technology (see below)!

 

 

Yoga & Nutrition Tip

Dietitian and MAC Yoga Instructor Diana Cullum-Dugan was recently quoted in The Yoga Journal. We all know balancing our yoga and eating habits can be tricky. Diana recommends:

Great job Diana! Thanks for the advice.

For a full schedule or to book a class with Diana go to www.mountauburnclub.com.

Mondays @ 9:00am Anusara Yoga Fundamentals 75 min.

Wednesdays @ 10:30am Anusara Going Deeper 75 min.

Importance of Balance

I recently read this great article posted by Heather Mikesell at American Spa Magazine. We often forget how important it is to keep our lives balanced. It's not always easy to get back on track once things have gotten out of balance either. Read below for a great way to get started!

"Anyone who works in a spa knows that it's not nearly as relaxing as it sounds. However, it is important to practice what the industry preaches. Living a life of balance is an important step to staying both healthy and happy. Lifestyle coach and founder of Forward Options, Karen Elizaga has created a menu to achieve balance, energy, and happiness in your everyday life. Her recipe is simple, just choose one appetizer and one main course off the following menu for the next 21 days. You may be surprised by the difference it makes and how carving out time for yourself yields such life-changing rewards."

Appetizers

• Gratitude: When you awake in the morning, compile a list of the things, both big and little, for which you're grateful.
• Love: First thing in the morning, take an inventory of all the reasons you love yourself.
• Breathe: Throughout the day, pay attention and breathe deeply.
• Posture: Stand-up straight throughout the day. How you hold your body has a direct correlation to your mood.
• Smile: Whether alone or among friends, smile. You can actually trick your body into actually believing there is happiness behind it.

Main Courses

• Nutrition: Ditch all processed and fast food as well as sugary treats and drinks. Also try to eat mostly organic. This will give you a boost of energy to last throughout the day.
• Exercise: Work out at least three times a week.
• No: It may be difficult to say, but don't hesitate when it means making more time for yourself, family, intimacy, or exercise.
• Date Night: Whether you're in a relationship or not, carve out time at least once a week for the person or people you love.
• BFF Time: At least once a week, book lunch, tea, or a manicure with a friend who has your back, makes you laugh, and loves to listen,
• Dancing: When you're swamped and unable to commit to another Main Course for the day, turn up your favorite music and just dance.

 This article is by Lifestyle Coach and founder of Forward Options, Karen Elizaga.

Eat up for great skin!

"As we have heard time and time again, to stay healthy eat your fruit and veggies! But what about eating fruit and veggies to improve the appearance of your skin? 

Fruits and vegetables in their raw form will give you a plethora of nutrients, but two recent human clinical studies have shown the benefits of fruit and vegetable intake and their affect on the appearance of the skin!" 

Read the full article here.

This article from Spatrade.com was written by Paula Simpson, B.A.Sc., R.N.C.P.

The Healing Benefits of Reiki

By Elizabeth Farrell 

This article is courtesy of  www.lestout.com

Reiki (pronounced ray-kee) is a form of holistic energy medicine that dates back to the teachings of Mikao Usui, who was a lay monk in Japan during the 1920's. In Reiki, a trained practitioner transmits energy through their hands in order to raise the level of ki in and around the person that they are assisting in order to bring about beneficial and healthful results. Ki is a Japanese word referring to life force or spiritual energy that is believed to flow through all living beings, both human and animal. This same life force energy is referred to in some other eastern languages as Qi, Chi or Prana.
It is believed that when this life force energy that flows around and within the body is somehow blocked or weakened, health and emotional or even spiritual problems may occur. These imbalances can be caused by many things such as chronic stress, physical or emotional trauma, poor nutrition or injury. By opening up the pathways of energy through the Reiki process and allowing it to flow more freely, the body and mind can better handle stress and spiritual well being can be enhanced.
Reiki is sometimes viewed as a type of alternative medicine, meaning that it doesn't fall under the category of conventional medical treatment. However, more and more people are attesting to the fact that Reiki can enhance one's health and complement the treatment that a person receives from traditional health care providers. The relaxed, comfortable state that is often induced in a Reiki session can create many beneficial physical results, which may include:

• Relief of pain associated with such chronic health problems as arthritis, fibromyalgia and migraines
  
• Blood pressure reduction
• A reduction in the side effects of medications, such as chemotherapy or medications taken for chronic health problems
• A healthier immune system
• Increased vitality

Reiki can also have beneficial mental, emotional and spiritual results which may include:

• A clearer mind and improved concentration
  
• Stronger self-confidence
• Enhanced creativity
• Anxiety and depression relief
• Assistance in the breaking of addictions
• Assistance in healing from past traumas
  
• Inner peace
• Feeling more in tune with the universe

What to Expect
The process of Reiki is very simple, painless and non-invasive. A client either sits or lies down in a comfortable position, fully clothed and the Reiki practitioner will place their hands either lightly upon or slightly above the clients body. There are about twelve to fifteen different hand positions that the practitioner may use, moving from the clients head to their feet, and each hand position is held for about two to five minutes. Some Reiki practitioners will choose to do a type of scan with their hands, picking up any energy blockages in the client and then focusing on these places.
 
Is Reiki a spiritual practice?
While Reiki is an energy work that is considered spiritual in nature, it is not a spiritual practice, nor is it dependent upon any particular spiritual belief.

Training Involved in Reiki
A Reiki practitioner must learn it from an experienced Reiki instructor and this training typically involves three different levels or degrees; after the third level of training a person is known as a Reiki Master. There are some Reiki practitioners who feel that they have the assistance of spiritual guides but not all practitioners feel this way.

A Final Note
Reiki should not be used as a replacement for conventional medical care and treatment. As mentioned earlier it sometimes falls under the category of alternative medicine, it is most often used as a way to complement standard, conventional medical treatment. In fact, many hospitals, hospices, counseling centers and doctors offices are including Reiki as part of the complementary therapies that they provide.

LMT Allison Ostrowski practices Reiki at the Mount Auburn Club Spa. Allison is here Wednesdays (12-8),  Thursdays (12-8), Fridays (11-7) & Sundays (10-5). Please call 617-924-9495 to book all appointments. 

Not sure if Reiki is right for you? Allison offers complimentary 15min. consultations.                                                                                                                             

The Power of Touch

by: Dr. Claudia Aguirre
This article is courtesy of www.dermalinstitute.com

We all know it feels good, but there is an increasing amount of scientific evidence backing the beneficial effects
of touch therapy. Whether it is massage, targeted therapy or simply holding hands, supportive touch is perhaps the only truly universal method of delivering positive effects to our bodies. But how does this work?...
 
Read the full article here.

New study: Botox affects 'distant' muscles too

Boston — Results of a new study suggest that Botox (onabotulinumtoxinA, Allergan) has previously unsuspected and long-lasting systemic effects on muscles other than the ones into which it's injected.

Read the full article here.